Paris 2019

As usual, Yen cleared his camera before we left. But then I put Mina in these overalls and he really had no choice.

20190907-DSC_5881

And then we decided to go for a little hike at Ward Reservation. The kids inherited my love of a good boardwalk.

20190908-DSC_5890

20190908-DSC_5900

Linus continues his research into carnivorous plants. I actually chose Ward for this walk because I was pretty sure we could find a few pitcher plants in the bog. Yep!

20190908-DSC_5902

It was a beautiful sunny day, and we intended to go for a longer walk than usual. I was wearing the backpack because I had strategically filled it with a variety of snacks for the kids to enjoy at different points throughout the morning.

20190908-DSC_5908

Unfortunately we read the map incorrectly, and after a half-hour walk, discovered that we were only getting started.

20190908-DSC_5910

We snacked, regrouped, and decided to take another trail.

You’ll notice that Linus is wearing his fungus shirt. I think we need to buy a few more for when this one wears out.

20190908-DSC_5917

And now, the promised vacation photos.

We left on a Wednesday evening (September 11, actually), and arrived early Thursday morning. Grandma and Grandpa joined us, but I’m afraid you won’t see a lot of photos of them. They’re expert travelers now, and we only saw them at the beginning and end of each day as we all enjoyed our lovely Airbnb.

It was located in Le Marais, so we took the train to Les Halles and then walked. Of course we stopped quickly when we discovered Stravinsky Fountain.

20190912-DSC_5941

20190912-DSC_5946

When I told people we were headed to Paris, I’m sure most of them assumed we’d be taking in the attractions, eating lots of pastries, and taking romantic walks. It wasn’t quite like that.

20190912-DSC_5973

20190912-DSC_5991

In fact, you’ll see that our agenda was focused on showing the kids a good time. Yen and I had both visited the city several times, so it was refreshing to explore the truly off-the-beaten-path places.

20190912-DSC_6009

Like playgrounds. We discovered that Paris has quite a few, but they’re always completely mobbed. And full of dust. And sometimes closed for construction but full of smoking teenagers. Still, the kids had a good time, and we found a few worth repeat visits.

20190912-DSC_6019

20190912-DSC_6025

20190912-DSC_6049

20190912-DSC_6068

Of course each playground had a lovely backdrop, like L’Eglise Saint-Eustache.

20190912-DSC_6065

I believe most of the adults here were actually au pairs. I suppose if you can afford to live in Paris, you need to spend your days working instead of playing.

20190912-DSC_6074

20190912-DSC_6096

20190912-DSC_6113

Across the street from the playground was the Les Halles mall and a LEGO store.

20190912-DSC_6124

20190912-DSC_6122

I’ll admit now that we really had a rough time with Linus on this trip. I’m not sure what’s going on with him lately, but he’s been incredibly difficult: hitting Mina, talking back, refusing to listen. On my more upbeat days, I consider all of these positive signs that he’s developing his own distinct personality, and it’s a natural part of growing up. On my low days, I want to sell him to the highest bidder. Still, he’s so damned cute, and he wins you back in the end.

20190912-DSC_6133

One of the reasons we chose to come to Paris now is to visit Yen’s aunt. She and her husband will soon be moving to Las Vegas, so we thought time was running out to see them there. Of course we’re happy to visit Vegas again!

You can see by the kids’ attire and the slightly glazed look in Yen’s eyes that this was an early morning visit. She’s taking a baking class now and needed to be ready for an exam by 10am.

20190913-DSC_6145

Finally we pulled ourselves together and went out on the town.

20190913-DSC_6153

I’m afraid you won’t see much of the classic views. Notre Dame especially is completely inaccessible right now. And anyway, the kids weren’t interested. We did all agree to a walk along the Seine, though.

20190913-DSC_6156

The weather wasn’t quite how I would have designed it. It was in the 80s most days. Yuck! Where’s my Fall?

20190913-DSC_6158

20190913-DSC_6167

20190913-DSC_6175

I don’t know how Yen managed to fake getting this close. It’s completely surrounded by a high wall while they start repairs.

20190913-DSC_6176

There – see the scaffolding?

20190913-DSC_6179

When we realized Notre Dame wasn’t an option, we carried on to Place Saint-Michel for a little snack (and a look at the people).

20190913-DSC_6193

I thought the kids would be excited about crepes. I expected to buy them constantly. Maybe we chose poorly for the first one, but they wanted nothing to do with it. I ended up eating most of it, and we didn’t get another! I’m so sad, and will have to visit MA France in Lexington soon.

20190913-DSC_6200

We roamed a lot, which was nice. But stressful. I explained to Linus that drivers in Paris don’t look out for little boys, and he needed to pay attention. Actually I needed to pay attention.

Maybe it was the weather, maybe it was Notre Dame burning. Maybe terror attacks and a general “do it while you can” attitude. But the city was completely packed – for more crowded than I’d ever seen it.

20190913-DSC_6205

If the tourist attractions were boring, the infrastructure certainly was not.

20190913-DSC_6206

Linus was particularly interested in the ubiquitous fountains.

20190913-DSC_6207

20190913-DSC_6211

You can’t tell it to look at them, but the kids had a great time. Somehow every time Yen took out his camera, they both dropped into “bored urchin” pose.

20190913-DSC_6223

20190913-DSC_6231

Mina was very interested in all the locks we found on various bridges. Yen and I were amused by the combination locks. Just keeping options open, I suppose.

20190913-DSC_6233

20190913-DSC_6237

20190913-DSC_6239

20190913-DSC_6249

20190913-DSC_6259

Of all the things we showed them, this was at the top of their list: a set of exercise bikes positioned next to the river and available to charge your various devices.

20190913-DSC_6276

Ah! Recognize that handsome fellow? Yes! It’s Jamie. He, Peter, and Cindy drove down from Belgium to join us for the weekend. He and Linus immediately picked up where they left off in their love affair with plumbing, mud, and other things you just shouldn’t touch.

20190914-DSC_6338

We went back to the LEGO store and the playground across the street.

20190914-DSC_6350

Everyone just acted naturally – they got to work right away constructing their various projects. It always amazes me how kids set to work immediately. You don’t see them pause to consider, they just begin trying out configurations to see what grows.

20190914-DSC_6361

Later we found this sculpture of a giant hand and face. Really who could resist climbing such a thing?

20190914-DSC_6385

20190914-DSC_6388

20190914-DSC_6403

20190914-DSC_6405

We carried on then toward the Louvre.  Not everyone has been inside, but we weren’t compelled to go in today, either.

20190914-DSC_6436

20190914-DSC_6447

20190914-DSC_6460

20190914-DSC_6464

It started to get really hot that day – probably 85 by mid-afternoon. We were all feeling a bit lazy but pressed on.

20190914-DSC_6470

You can’t see it, but if you sit right where Mina is, you’re actually looking right down the Avenue des Champs-Elysees. We turned off before we got there, though.

20190914-DSC_6517

Because carousel!

20190914-DSC_6524

20190914-DSC_6527

We found another playground and the kids headed right up this giant ladder. Didn’t matter that I was nervous. Didn’t matter that they saw another kid fall down from the top. Up they went!

20190914-DSC_6538

Mina was probably too small to be up there, if we’re being honest. Jamie was incredibly sweet and helped her out – without anyone coaching him to.

20190914-DSC_6547

20190914-DSC_6558

We saw some rather morbid sculptures during our walk.

20190914-DSC_6561

As usual ice cream was a theme for the day. It look quite an effort to find a place, Les Glaces du Palais at Palais Royal, but it was worth it. Very high quality stuff!

20190914-DSC_6570

Then various little people started asking to use the toilet, and we realized it would be easiest to just sit down, order some coffees, and then use the restaurant‘s facilities.

20190914-DSC_6580

The kids really loved taking the subway everywhere.

20190914-DSC_6586

20190914-DSC_6588

That afternoon we attempted to visit the Eiffel Tower. But again… So many people!

20190914-DSC_6592

Back to a carousel!

20190914-DSC_6612

20190914-DSC_6623

Now I’ll take you on a journey in which we try to get some good tourist photos. This one worked fairly well.

20190914-DSC_6626

Then I moved to a new location and tried to get the kids to join me. That’s Linus behind me.

20190914-DSC_6640

OK, I got him, but now Mina’s behind him!

20190914-DSC_6641

Peter took over the camera, and Yen joined the effort.

20190914-DSC_6645

Maybe if we tickle them they’ll smile?

20190914-DSC_6647

20190914-DSC_6649

OK, forget it!

20190914-DSC_6653

Nice, Mina! Only what’s going on with Linus and gravity?

20190914-DSC_6659

Total defeat.

20190914-DSC_6660

Now the pros come in and get a nice one in one shot!

20190914-DSC_6670

Back down to the subway to find our way back and make our dinner reservation.

20190914-DSC_6671

I finally just lost my patience with Mina and hauled her.

20190914-DSC_6685

The next morning, we set out for La Villette, a huge complex on the outskirts of Paris.  It has it all.  Museums.  Parks. Lots of green space. A sunken bamboo garden. Crazy playgrounds. Carousels. Etc. on and on in a beautiful, free setting.

20190915-DSC_6700

20190915-DSC_6704

20190915-DSC_6720

Who says playing is just for kids?

20190915-DSC_6749

20190915-DSC_6752

20190915-DSC_6765

20190915-DSC_6788

Mina stretched up to show how tall she could be, then Peter added his glasses to the ensemble.

20190915-DSC_6791

20190915-DSC_6826

20190915-DSC_6828

Check out this look of determination on her face. I’ll give you, now, a montage called Mina Jumps.

20190915-DSC_6838

20190915-DSC_6857

20190915-DSC_6852

20190915-DSC_6853

20190915-DSC_6849

20190915-DSC_6861

20190915-DSC_6866

It was getting close to time for Peter and Cindy to head home. We stopped off for one last carousel ride, and agreed to meet up for lunch.

20190915-DSC_6876

20190915-DSC_6878

20190915-DSC_6884

You see Peter over there on the other side of the canal? He’s looking at his phone because he’s laughing at me. We’re all the way on the other side of the canal, and had a heck of a time finding them.

20190915-DSC_6890

No problem, we’ll just cross the bridge!

20190915-DSC_6896

We had lunch outside at a cute little place. Unfortunately they forgot to put our order in, and it took 30 minutes longer than it should have.

20190915-DSC_6913

Then we said goodbye and headed back to the house.

20190915-DSC_6923

20190915-DSC_6924

The next day, we checked out Jardin des Plantes, which is a combination of a botanical garden and several museums.

20190916-DSC_6955

Bee hotel!

20190916-DSC_6961

This museum was the Grande Galerie de l’Evolution. What a great space!

20190916-DSC_6976

20190916-DSC_6981

20190916-DSC_6996

Linus is delighted by the interactive screen. I’m horrified by the climate change models.

20190916-DSC_7045

20190916-DSC_7058

20190916-DSC_7064

20190916-DSC_7078

20190916-DSC_7084

Now we’re really starting to get tired. It’s hot. We’re not sure what to do the rest of the day. Linus was reaching peak obnoxious levels. We headed up to this aqueduct that’s been turned into a 4km long elevated park, Couloir Verte (“green belt”). It’s the first of its kind, and inspired a similar one in NYC.

20190916-DSC_7090

20190916-DSC_7098

20190916-DSC_7129

And… another carousel. What is that, four now?

20190916-DSC_7135

And that was it! We were full of croissants and ready for the next adventure. Here we are at the train station waiting for ours to board.

20190917-DSC_7178

Surprise! Yen’s aunt and Francois came to see us off!

20190917-DSC_7170

See Linus’s little jump for joy as we’re preparing to board?

20190917-DSC_7184

And we’re off! Next stop: Amsterdam.

20190917-DSC_7193

20190917-DSC_7197

20190917-DSC_7209

20190917-DSC_7226