Azores: Furnas

Wait, where did we bring two toddlers that has steam rising from the ground? That would be Furnas!

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

When you arrive at the lagoa, the first thing you notice is the cats. They’re everywhere! And then you realize that’s attracting them: the smell. The whole place smells wonderfully of stew. That’s because they’ve (somehow) dug holes into this piping-hot ground and lower cauldrons full of potatoes, beef, and chorizo into them for cooking. We arrived close to lunch time, and the place was packed. It turned out they were gathered for the big lunchtime unveiling of the food. Here’s how it works: a couple of men climb out of a van with giant hooks, which they use to pull the pot out of the ground. Everyone claps and the men load the pot into the truck. Then everyone rushes back to their cars to follow them to a restaurant.

We skipped that part. Instead, we walked around a little while longer enjoying the quiet.

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

I kept gasping because the rails aren’t exactly toddler-proof, and it would have been incredibly easy for one of them slip through and into the boiling water.

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

Here’s a good shot of the cooking holes. You can see that many of them have a sign next to them noting the restaurant where you can buy the stew later.

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

Because there were two little boys in our group, we naturally ended up down by the lake so we could chuck rocks into the water.

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

Yen planned for us to take a small hike in the woods. Linus was rather excited and thought this was the trailhead. He absolutely refused to believe that it wasn’t, and Yen had to show him that it was blocked a little farther on.

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

A little stream that feeds the lake.

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

We walked along the lake edge until we found a little footbridge over the stream. Linus and Jamie were completely satisfied then and spent quite a long time running back and forth just to show they could do it without falling in.

That’s foreshadowing…

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

Photo of a photo. So meta!

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

You probably noticed rain coats in all of the photos so far. At this point we decided that we weren’t really in the mood for a soggy hike through the woods, and that it was getting a little late. So we piled into the cars and headed into town to see what we could find (besides stew, necessarily).

Lagoa das Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

We found a small restaurant that seemed to be run by a mom and two daughters. The food was simple but very good. I ordered an omelette for the kids and a roasted chicken for myself. Linus ended up eating almost the entire chicken!

Snack-Bar Café Atlântida, Furnas, São Miguel, Azores

After lunch we walked five whole minutes to the real destination of the day: a botanical garden attached to a hotel called Parque Terra Nostra. It’s a collection of all the different plants that can be found across the islands that make up the Azores. Of course as volcanic island, there aren’t a lot of native species. So as you wander around the park, you also get to see where each plant came from originally.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

There’s a series of streams, canals, and ponds throughout the place.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

This isn’t the hotel – not sure what it is, though. But in the foreground is the main attraction of the park: a swimming area fed by hot springs. We didn’t bring our suits, so we didn’t get to take part. Again with me being nervous: I wasn’t sure what would happen if we took toddlers swimming in warm water we couldn’t see the bottom of. No idea what I thought would happen, but I was just… my nervous self.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Also, I know the water was warm, but the air was fairly cold. You have to get out at some point!

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Looking at this photo now, I can’t believe that horse made it in and out of the park successfully. But I did check and it’s here at home with us. I wonder where she stored it the entire time?

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Hello from below! I’m chasing Linus into a cave.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

There’s the cave (sorry, “grotto”) in the distance. I got inside to find several young men holding Linus’s collar as he hung over the edge. “It’s dangerous,” one said to me. I told him, “He’s dangerous.”

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Here’s Mina inside the grotto. Not being dangerous.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

This is looking from the garden back toward the town. It looks rather alpine in this view.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

We came to this pond and Linus announced his intention to walk across the stepping stones to an island in the middle. I figured I might as well go along and help him. Everything seemed to go well at first…

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

The space between the stones was bigger than I realized at first.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

At some point I began to wonder just how deep the pond was.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

There’s a video, actually!

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

And then… Linus lost his balance and ended up in the water up to his neck. I tried to pull him back up and lost my balance. Now I know how deep the pond is. Luckily it wasn’t very cold.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

But it was deep enough that I had a heck of a time climbing back onto the rocks! Linus was crying and shivering, and I was absolutely killing myself trying to get back up while laughing.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

So once again, Peter showed off his toddler-catching skills. I got back to shore to find Yen and Cindy struggling not to laugh at me. I assured them that it was completely appropriate to laugh.

Somehow I got the impression that there weren’t any photos of it! I guess there aren’t photos of the actual falling. Yen said he thought he’d taken enough photos and stopped to look down at Mina. The next thing he heard was shouting and laughing, and he knew he’d missed something big.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

I’m pleased to report that while my boots had to be placed under the heating unit back at the house to dry, my pants dried before the end of the visit to the park. Lightweight fabrics win again!

Linus wasn’t so lucky. He was soaked head to toe and absolutely freezing by the time we got back to the car. I stripped him down and he rode home wrapped in a towel.

But that’s later. For now, the rest of the visit.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Mina continued her stick collection.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

I did carry Linus for most of the rest of the visit. Poor thing with wet shoes.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Jamie and Mina stormed the monument.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

And then took off like bandits!

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

We found a topiary garden. I complained that you can’t call it topiaries unless it’s bushes carved into shapes – these are stone statues with plants growing over them. I guess the jury is still out.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

 

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

There were other people standing by the pond when I fell in, and we kept running into them again throughout our visit. Peter cracked me (and himself) up suggesting that I should pretend to be German next time I saw them.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

In this part of the park, they made designs in the grass with flowers. This stairway to nowhere lets you take in the view from above.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Linus and I are scale here against a tree from New Zealand, I believe. This is by the exit, as we decided that the kindest thing to do now would be to head back home for some dry clothes for Linus.

Parque Terra Nostra, São Miguel, Azores

Here he is, home and dry. And pretending to be a baby. Get a good night’s sleep, baby! We’re off again in the morning.

São Miguel, Azores